Saturday 18 September 2010

Changing the fuel filter in a Commodore

MY car was randomly dying, and before I started spasming I figure it needs some basic maintenance. Then we'll see how we go. Apparently Holden don't like you fucking with their cars - even though you own it - so what they do is make it a pain in the arse to do ANYTHING. Even then though, some things they can only make so hard. I had no idea so I tried googling how to do it - couldn't even FIND the fuel filter - and any of the info never had pictures to help. So, in the interests of helping my fellow cheap fucks, here we go..

YOU ARE WORKING WITH FUEL. DONT BLOW YOUR ARSE UP
If you do, don't blame me

Two things you MUST have if you're gonna dick around with the car is a manual - not the retarded shit Holden give you with the car; a REAL manual. $40ish from Repco. Exy, but worth it. Especially if you consider it will cost you hundreds for Holden to do it for ya.


Second is ramps. A must buy. While we're at this pic, Holden, in all their wisdom, put the fucking thing under the car just in front - towards the engine from behind - of the fuel tank. Ramps for me is like a oil filter removing strap thingo. Just get em.


Rightio, in to it. According to the book you need to release the pressure in the fuel lines before dicking with them. Something to do with fuel injection. First thing you do is remove the fuel cap; this takes the pressure from the tank. This is important for when you take off the fuel filter from the hoses. Trust me. Then you open the bonnet and find the "fuse and electrical centre". That is just on the left wall, on mine, a VT. Under the lid of it you will find a map to the 'fuel pump relay'. Take it out. Try starting the engine after you have removed it and 'run' till it dies. Mine didn't run at all. Then it says to turn the engine over for about 10 seconds. Just do it.



This is the fuel filter. You can get gear for plugging the fuel lines or if you're like me, and just don't want to, just do what the book says and work quick. Laughed at that. This is where removing the pressure from the fuel tank comes in handy. The shit POURS out, under pressure you'd get SHOWERED in it. Some forums I went to suggest I need a special tool ($20) from Holden to remove the fuel lines. Fuck that. I got them off with a standard pair of pliers by squeezing where that white circle is on the raised ridges. Took some fiddling, but got there. I removed the right side first.


I took the right one off and shoved the new filter - cost like 25 bucks - on with the yellow cap still. Pressure popped it off a coupla times but eventually stayed on. I did get some fuel down my arm. Gravity and all that. Next was to work the left one off then shove the new one on that hose. Again, more fuel. The old filter was full of fuel too. There's a strap that you can see on the pic above that holds it in place. The new filter came with a new strap, so I gave the old strap no mercy. Just try not to root the fuel lines. THAT would be a pain in the anus to sort out. Test the new one is attached good by trying - not overly - to pull the lines off, and make sure she's held in place well with the strap.



Bob's yer uncle and all that. Don't forget to put your relay back in.

19 comments:

  1. Good work, I know on early Holdens the fuel pump would go if you kept the fuel level low. I did the leads on the Ford and talk about a bugger of a job.

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  2. Never arsed around with a Ford, and avoid it like the plague on any other, but the best I've toyed with was my old kingswood panelvan. Thinking about getting the tank cleaned too.

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  3. I wish I was half as capable as you displayed in this exersice.

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  4. Good work. Any chance you can sort out how to fix flimsy disc brakes on a mountain bike? Mine are jiggered and I stop on a wing and a prayer most days.

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  5. B, easy peasey lemon squeezey.

    ALD, Anything Shimano.

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  6. Hooray for good-quality manuals, eh?

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  7. Can't believe the Holden one. 'This is your seat belt'. Faaark me.

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  8. Moko the factory manuals are that way for a reason hence the Gregories etc.

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  9. Fooken good work son, yu gubben me de confidence to do it miself instead of dat ripoff mechanic who doesnt even do a job properly

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  10. This might be a stupid question but could I clamp either side on the fuel lines (carefully of course) so stop fuel pouring out when i removed them?

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  11. Looks easy... i think i can fuk this job up.. lolz.. u one funny fukr but thanx for the info n ill get a mate from work to do this i think..lolz again

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  12. Thank you, mate! Fixed the car of my friend following this instruction. Her Commodore 2000 was stalling under load. Changing fuel filter was the solution. Cheers!

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  13. I was having the same problem with my VY jerking when going below 60km but was fine on cruise control, replaced the fuel filter and chucked a bottle of injector cleaner and problem solved. Used the instructions above , helped heaps with only minimal fuel spill. Cheers

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  14. great instructions man.. Going to tackle this job on the weekend cheers...

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  15. Ugh! Holden Crewman is giving me the shits! Finally located what I need to get to (of course it's under the engine) but now my boobies are getting in the God damn way when I try to get under...this is why mostechanics are men...no boobs.

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  16. I found the above instructions particularly useful for disconnecting the fuel lines in my 2001 VX Berlina wagon with nearly 300,000k on the clock. My pump failed at the local supermarket, luckily a lady in the park suggested to hit the tank a few times, as this sometimes will kick the pump into life just to get you home. Well it worked. I had about 20 litres of fuel left in the tank without a syhpon in my box of tricks.
    I put the car on stands, removed my filler cap and the filler door, they break so easily, released the straps holding the tank in place and eased the tank down on an angle to the ground. Since the pump actually failed and I tried to start it a few times, the fuel lines were depressurised.
    Being able to see the top of the module now, I brushed the tank with a dustpan broom and used compressed air to blow away the dust so it would not enter the tank when removing the module.
    I then dissconnected the pipes and electrical connector, a rag was suffiient to catch spillages. I rotated the locking ring and withdrew the module (a bit tricky to withdraw). Quite a lot of petrol was in the module so I carried it upright and emptied into a jerry can using a funnel.
    dismantling the module and revmoving the pump was a snap.
    with the hardest part out of the way I could refit a new pump and put everything back together.
    Even after having to go through all this I still love my Commodore and am so glad mine has a 3.8L motor instead of the crappy 3.6.

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  17. Whats the trick for disconnecting the clamps on a fuel filter VZ Commodore, I better find out before I f.....k something

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  18. you sir are a god among men xx

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  19. Beloved 04 vx stalls when i switch it to petrol (been told to switch while going around 60 )and won't start the gas is back firing badly I changed the air box and sensor spark plugs and leads but the cars still back firing really bad so I'm trying to find out if it's the fual pump or is there a simpler answer to my petrol problem and if so is it true that if I can get it to switch to petrol that it won't backfire

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